Love the Remington 870

Every year when waterfowl begin their annual trip south, hunters across America oil up their 870s. Countless cops have tricked out 870s, literally riding shotgun. And when something goes bump in the night, those who are serious about defending home and hearth reach for the 870. It is arguably the most common shotgun in America. There are millions of them in this country alone. How many millions? I doubt even Remington knows, for sure–but 10,000,000 is the safe estimate.

Even the box it comes in is pedestrian. This is a no-frills firearm.

So what’s all the fuss? The pump action shotgun has proven itself more versatile and less finicky than the fickle automatics, so hunters trust the design.
Because of the wide assortment of aftermarket options, the 870 is easy to fine-tune and customize, which makes it appeal to tactical shooters.
And for home defense, the pump shotgun is a great deterrent weapon capable of firing a variety of loads.
But most of that list applies to all pump shotguns. Yet the old 870, a design that’s close to 65 years old, is still the standard by which all other pump shotguns are judged.

So what’s the secret?

I’ve been asking this for a long time. I haven’t drunk the proverbial 870 Kool-Aid. I’ve come to this review with a completely open mind. I’ve owned a couple of 870s, but it has never been my go-to gun. They come in, I mess with them a bit, and then I end up selling them to make room for something else. But here’s the rub–several people whose opinions I trust implicitly have 870s as the corner-stone of their tactical armories. And they think I should, too.

The walnut is clear and not highly figured. The wood gives the 870P a classic look.

The wooden furniture has a warm feel to it that I prefer over plastic, but it will require maintenance.

So I’m giving it a shot. I’m starting with this classic design and I’m going to see what I can do to it to make the 870 the perfect shotgun. This will be a rather involved process, and I plan on overhauling almost every piece of the gun. But my effort is also going to require new training. Even though most pump guns work in a similar fashion, each gun has a nuanced skill set required to make them run efficiently.

The receiver of the 870P is marked Police Magnum.

The basics

The 870 is the most common pump shotgun in America. I’ve gone one step further and opted for the Police Magnum. This is an 870 with a few robust improvements. Most companies offer something like the good, better, best model. This is more like robust, more robust, and ridiculous. I prefer the ridiculous end of the robust spectrum.
It is essentially an 870, though the receiver has been milled from a solid piece of steel. In the standard form, the gun comes with walnut furniture. This one has also been parkerized. These three simple improvements hide the standard dual action bars and a bolt which locks up with the barrel. It is a robust deign, for sure.
As far as options go, the 870 is almost as easily customized as a 1911 or an AR-15. From pistol grips, to sights, to furniture…lights, lasers, etc. Remington offers a wide variety of stock options, and the used market is full of custom jobs. But the basic controls of the 870 will stay the same.
One distinct feature of the 870 that I’m having trouble acclimating to is the placement of the safety. Where Mossberg has their safeties on the tang, where you can easily reach them with your thumb, Remington keeps theirs behind the trigger. The safety is easy to reach with your trigger finger. To make the gun safe (at least for those of us who are right handed), you move the trigger finger away from the trigger and roll the thumb over to the other side.

The finger sweeps across the safety and disengages it effortlessly.

The safety is easy to engage with the thumb.

The other main difference in the controls is the placement of the action bar lock. To chamber that first shell, you have to wrap your hand forward on the frame. The Mossberg’s action lock is closer to where the 870’s safety sits. I’ve grown accustomed to hitting it with my thumb when I want to get the action in motion.

The action bar lock is forward of the trigger guard.

If you intend to hit the action bar lock with your right thumb, you have to reach for it.

Neither of these are deal breakers. As I’ve spent a lot of time behind a Mossberg, I’ll just have to retrain my brain. But there’s a lingering question, I think, that makes this argument worth having. Is one set-up better than the other?
I like a tang safety. There’s very little chance that I’ll move it one way or the other unintentionally. With the 870’s safety, I can see how I might reach to grip the gun and push the safety off. Then again, that is precisely how it is intended to work. As you reach for the grip, your trigger finger sweeps the safety off. There is not extra step needed to make the gun operational. If your thumb is working the safety, you will need to wrap it back around before you pull the trigger.
So I’m going to call the 870’s safety a clear favorite. As for the possibility that I might disengage the safety accidentally, that is on me. And it goes back to training. If I can keep my finger off the trigger, I should be able to keep the same finger off the safety.
But I’ll be damned if I don’t really miss that Mossberg action bar lock. I have been working this 870 pretty hard for about a month now, and I still can’t get used to giving it the old reach-around. My thumb goes for its habitual position, and there’s nothing there. The action doesn’t open. The whole machine grinds to a halt.

I’ve loaded this gun a lot in the last month and I’ve yet to catch my thumb in the gate.

But what about the reliability?

There’s no disputing the simple fact that the 870’s legendary reliability is at the heart of its popularity. Again we see the old triad of sportsman, LEOs, and home defenders…. They all want a gun that will work. That’s where the old workhorse 870 comes into its own. You can argue about which shotgun is most reliable, or which one is most durable, or which one is most versatile, but the fact remains that the 870 is sufficient for almost everyone. Durable enough. Reliable enough. Accurate enough.
And should the gun break down, the 870 is easy to repair. The very popularity of the platform means that there is a healthy aftermarket supply of parts. Anything broken can be easily replaced. As this is a gun that has moving parts, and one that suffers from the abusive kick of the 12 gauge shells, there are parts that wear out. Springs, mainly. Extractors. Action bar locks.
Some of the 870 issues I’ve seen are attributable to good-old-fashioned redneck gun-care habits. You know who I’m talking about. I have one relative who will complain that his 870 doesn’t work right. Never mind that the gun is older than I am, or that it has never been kept in a safe with controlled humidity. I doubt it has ever been cleaned. The rust you see on the surface of a gun should point to a much bigger problem on the inside. And the old 870 will rust. So do we call this user error?
As for the gun itself, I’ve rarely seen an 870 come from the factory with a noticeable flaw. If one element is sticky or stiff, a bit of polishing usually solves the issue. Tolerances on the guns are loose enough to allow for some modification. We’re talking shotguns, and not the hand-built Italian sporting models.

Accuracy

Again, we reach a place where it is difficult to find a clear winner. Most 12 gauge shotguns of equal length with the same choke will perform in a very similar fashion. But there are notable differences. Sights are the most obvious. This 870 has some crude sights. They are about as crude as you can get on any gun that actually goes to the trouble of adding sights. The front is a simple dot. The rear is just a wide grooved channel.
Yet it doesn’t really change how the gun shoots, and if you have any skill with a scattergun you will be able to put lead or steel where you want it. Check out these results.

The spread from buckshot at 7 yards. Devastating.

Buckshot from 25 yards. A wide spread.

High brass steel shot from 7 yards.

High brass steel shot from 25 yards.

Bird shot from 7 yards.

Low brass from 25 yards.

Two slugs from 25 yards.

The end is just the beginning

For me, the 870P is a perfectly serviceable firearm. I blame my ambivalence on accidental brand loyalty. If I have a choice between a Coke and a Pepsi, I’m going to drink the Coke. I have no idea when I decided that. The same is true for the 870. But I’ve made a commitment to this gun. In the shape it is in right now, I can begin retraining my brain. And I’ll make the other changes one piece at a time, so the gun isn’t ever out of circulation for too long. And I’ll be back with updates.
So how about it? I know most of you reading this may very well own an 870. What am I missing? What makes this the standard by which all others must be judged? Is it the price? With the millions that are out there, fair trades are easy to find. Prices vary wildly depending on the options and model and caliber. The 870P in this configuration is often listed in the high $400–to low $600 range. But what about the other reliable options? Why not the old Winchester, or the Ithaca, or the Mossberg or Benelli? What is it that makes the 870 stand out as the first choice for so many of you?

The extractor is easy to access and service.

The ejection happens on the right side and is clean and forceful.

The fit is about what you’d expect from a mass produced gun.

The butt-pad is thick.

While more intricate sights are available, this is functional simplicity.

The brass bead catches available light.

The front bead.

The build is solid and the component parts are robust.

No Rem-Chokes for this one. Improved cylinder choke only.

The walnut forend.

The safety pushes from the left to the right.

9 balls of OO Buck from the shells used above.

Troy Takes on the AK-47

The AK has a dedicated cult following here in The States. Despite its reputation as the-rifle-that-won’t-quit, the Kalashnikov is still a hard sell for many who cut their metaphoric teeth on the very American AR-15. There are numerous reasons—too many to list. Some hate the lack of a bolt hold open. Others can’t wrap their heads around the mag release. Still others don’t trust the 7.62 x 39. And some folks are just too patriotic. The biggest complaint: the lack of rail for easily mounting optics.
But each of those issues has after-market fixes (except for the patriotism—I’m not sure that needs fixing). The Russian rifles come in numerous calibers, and can be retrofitted with a variety of American-user-friendly options. That’s where this review is headed, obviously, but we have to make a clear distinction here, at the outset. Troy doesn’t make plastic junk to help Call-of-Duty wannabes make their AKs look cool. These aren’t novelty parts. Troy makes hard-use gear.

When an American gun maker takes on Russia’s shortcomings

The very real threat of terrorism would suggest that everyone, and I mean everyone, should know how to run an AK—and also how to shut one down. With that in mind, I became a student of the platform. And I’ve grown to respect it. But the basic design has its flaws.

This MFT hand guard is functional, but it is too compact for my taste.

I’ve been waiting for this kit for a long time. I’ve been slowly working my way through the aftermarket options for forends, looking for something that will allow me to keep my hand off of the gas tube and barrel. I tend to hold farther out than the stubby forends on most AKs will allow. So when I saw the long tubes on the AKs in the Troy booth at SHOT last year, I was ready.
There was only one problem—the Troy forends wouldn’t clear certain Arsernal AK barrels, because of the threads for their muzzle devices. I talked with Troy several times about the changes being made, and at last a set arrived tailored to the Arsenal.

The benefits

Length is first for me. This long tube allows for a lot more real estate than I’ve ever had on an AK. With this much length, you can wrap way out above the barrel (which is an ideal hold for a rifle with sights this high). If length is not important, Troy makes a short version of the rail, too.

Vent holes allow for air circulation, and for the attachment of rail sections.

If you want more texture, add Squid Grip plugs.

Even the short version has exceptional texture. The tube is cut so that you can grip any surface on the outside of the tube and find a solid hand-hold. If you want more texture, you can stick the rubber squid-suckers into the vent holes. Sections of rail can be added, too, so hand stops and vertical grips are also options.
One thing I’ve found with other forends is a distinct lack of stability. The wooden forends are solid, but don’t offer much beyond modest insulation. Some of the plastic forends are easy to fit, but shoot loose, or come loose when the plastic heats up and expands. The aluminum forends are less prone to this, but most are so thick (and placed in close proximity to the gas tube and barrel, that they heat up quickly and hold that heat longer.

The rear of the forend mates with the receiver.

The stability of this milled connection is what makes this a viable platform.

The way the Troy forend attaches keeps it from shooting loose. And the open space inside the tube allows for the air to pass freely, which helps cool off the gun and the forend.

How to install it

Taking the old forend off may be incredibly easy. If not, it may require tools, elbow grease, and carefully selected expletives. Once the two halves are off, dry fit the forend. Remove the brake or flash hider and angle in the barrel. The sight post is the real obstacle.

Strip it down.

Rock the forend over the front sight. You will likely need to take off the muzzle device.

Cut outs fit existing parts with tolerances just forgiving enough for basic manufacturing variations.

Bolts inside the forend need to be snugged down. This locks it in place.

The bolts are not easy to reach.

Again, improvise as needed. A flexible extender makes the job easy.

Install the new top rail. This replaces the gas tube and fits in place easily.

If it doesn’t slide in place, you may need to find a way to hammer it home. I used a brass punch and a Tru-Glo sight riser locked onto the rail.

I hammered on the riser instead of the rails. Worked perfectly.

Then ratchet down the front end.

In the end, the rail becomes a solid platform on which to mount optics.

The benefit is clear. My old rail was plastic, which is much less stable than the aluminum.

The end result is a solid fit that compliments the aesthetic of the gun.

Criticisms

When I finally got the retrofitted gun to the range, I had one issue. The open section below the sight post allows you to get close to that hot barrel. I didn’t have my cleaning rod in, which would have offered another small barrier. Just be careful when you wrap that hand around the end of the forend.

There should be a plate to cover this open cut-out, which is required to get the tube over the sight.

That would keep my hand form coming in contact with the bottom of the barrel.

The fix? I’d like to see Troy build a small section of tube that simply bolts into place—something that would bring the whole circumference of the tube all the way to the end. If that were available, I’d Loc-tite that plate in place and never take the forend off of this gun. Ever. I like it that much.
As is, I’m going to have to practice a bit before I’m comfortable reaching way out there on that end. And I’ll be wearing gloves.

In the (fore)end

There’s a lot to recommend about this set-up. Even with the open bottom, the forend offers so much more than the typical tactical AK furniture, and infinitely more than the wood. It may not look so much like an AK when you’re finished, but that’s typically not an issue for those of us who want their guns to be as functional as possible.
The long Troy forend sells for $139.95. The top rail is $149.

Add a vertical grip, too.

The Troy grip is modular.

It can even be used for storage.

And the screw can be replaced with a quick release version.

The rail sections are easy to install, but you have to have room for the hardware inside the tube.

The rail isn’t flush fitting, but doesn’t protrude much.

The forend tube has a small section of rail.

That section is lower than the section on the gas tube.

The fit, considering how sloppy some AK tolerances are known to be, is really impressive.

And the whole thing comes together to give the AK a much more modern look.

CZ Scorpion EVO 3 S1 Pistol

NRA Gun of the Week: CZ Scorpion EVO 3 S1 Pistol

by American Rifleman Staff - Saturday, October 31, 2015

The third iteration of the CZ Scorpion submachine gun was unveiled in 2009 as the EVO 3 A1, and this year the Czech gunmaker introduced a semi-automatic pistol version of that selective-fire carbine—the EVO 3 S1. Featuring simple blowback operation and chambered for the prevalent 9 mm Luger cartridge, the pistol is essentially identical to its rifle brother, just without the buttstock and the capacity for fully-automatic fire.

Constructed of polymer and steel, the S1 has an overall length of just over 16” and weighs roughly 5 lbs. The gun features numerous Picatinny rail sections for the installation of optics and accessories, bilateral safety selectors and magazine releases and a non-reciprocating charging handle that can be installed on either side of the pistol. Watch the video hosted by American Rifleman's Kelly Young to learn more about the CZ Scorpion EVO 3 S1 pistol. For more, visit cz-usa.com.

Specifications
Importer: CZ-USA
Model: Scorpion EVO 3 S1
Action: blowback-operated, semi-automatic pistol
Caliber: 9 mm Luger
Magazine: 20-round-capacity, detachable box
Frame: reinforced polymer
Barrel: 7.72”, 6-groove, 1:9.8” RH twist
Sights: adjustable, low-profile post front, aperture rear
Trigger: 9-lb., 11-oz.
Length of Pull: 16.5”
Weight: 5 lbs.
Accessories: owner’s manual, sight-adjustment tool, two 20-round magazines, pull-through bore cleaner
MSRP: $849