Legally Buy Machine Guns, Silencers, Short Barrels–Understand the NFA

(Note: I am not an attorney and this does not constitute legal advice. You’ll find resources in the article to which you can refer for legal guidance.)
The misunderstandings about the National Firearms Act (NFA) go back a long way. All the way to Prohibition, in fact, to gang warfare and shootings like the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre:
It was February 14th, 1929. The Irish gangster Bugsy Moran, one of Al Capone’s fiercest enemies, ran his bootlegging operation out of a garage on the north side of Chicago. Men dressed as policemen entered the garage and told the seven men they found there that they were under arrest. The men were then lined up in front of a brick wall and unceremoniously gunned down. Al Capone was conveniently at his home in Florida at the time.
The St. Valentine’s Day Massacre was followed four years later, February 15th, 1933, by an assassination attempt on President Roosevelt by Giuseppe Zangara in Miami. Roosevelt escaped unharmed but the mayor of Chicago, Anton Cermak, died from his wounds. The people had had enough.

Big Al with his attorneys during his 1931 trial for tax evasion. They were smiling but he went to prison.

WHAT IS NFA?

In 1934 Congress passed the National Firearms Act (NFA). The purpose of the law was to curtail transactions in firearms favored by organized crime (NFA Firearms). These included machine guns, silencers, and sawed-off shotguns. Because the law was passed supposedly as an exercise of Congress’ authority to tax, that was the mechanism used to accomplish their real goals. The transfer tax on an NFA Firearm was set at $200. Adjusted for inflation, that was equivalent to $3,557.76 in 2015 dollars. Congress felt that was enough to curtail sales of these firearms. Of course, it was pocket change for the big gangs of the day. However, it did make it nearly impossible for everyday citizens to buy them. The takeaway here is that, although it priced these items out of the reach of ordinary citizens, it did not make them illegal as long as they were properly registered and the tax was paid.
The NFA was updated through Title II of the Gun Control Act (GCA) of 1968, and the misnamed Firearm Owner’s Protection Act (FOPA) of 1986. FOPA made it illegal for anyone other than the military and law enforcement to possess a machinegun except for those already registered prior to May 19, 1986. It also made components of NFA Firearms, like silencer parts and fully automatic trigger packs, into NFA Firearms under the law. It was justified as an “intent to build” an NFA Firearm.

Since real criminals are hard to catch, the public-through their elected representatives-consented to the criminalization of objects., such as the Thompson.

SO WHAT ARE TODAY’S NFA FIREARMS AND HOW CAN YOU LEGALLY OWN THEM UNDER FEDERAL LAW?

NFA Firearms Categories: (National Firearms Handbook https://www.atf.gov/firearms/national-firearms-act-handbook)

• Machine guns – any gun that can fire more than one shot with a single pull of the trigger
• Short-barreled rifles (SBRs) – any gun with a buttstock and with a rifled barrel less than 16” or overall length of under 26”
• Short-barreled shotguns (SBSs) – similar to an SBR but with a smooth bore barrel less than 18” or overall length less than 26”
• Suppressors – any portable device designed to muffle or disguise the report of a portable firearm
• Destructive Devices (DDs) – grenades, bombs, bazookas, poison gas weapons, etc. Any firearm with a bore diameter of more than 0.50” except for shotguns.
• Any other weapon (AOW) – weapons or devices which can be concealed on the body and which fire a projectile through an explosive force. Includes pen guns, cane guns, lighter guns, etc. In 1960 the tax for AOWs was reduced to $5.
• Parts associated with NFA Firearms – suppressor baffles, drop-in fully automatic trigger sears, etc.

[Note: Muzzle-loading firearms are exempt from the Act (as they are defined as ‘antique firearms’ and are not considered ‘Firearms’ under either the GCA or the NFA). Thus, though common muzzle-loading hunting rifles are available in calibers over 0.50″, they are not regulated as destructive devices.]

REGISTRATION,PURCHASES, TAXES and TRANSFERS

The most common NFA Firearms are machine guns, SBRs, and silencers. It is completely legal under federal law to buy, own, and shoot these items. However, some state and local laws ban ownership so check with local law enforcement before making a purchase. In addition, prior to completing a purchase you have to first register the item in the NFA Registry with the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (BATFE or simply ATF), and pay the $200 registration tax. Fortunately the tax has not changed since 1934. (At last, something that has benefitted from inflation!)

If you want to avoid the paperwork, there are semi-auto versions of the old classics that are still fun to shoot. This Thompson pistol is made by Auto Ordnance.

http://www.auto-ordnance.com/Firearms/Thompson-T1.asp
The process is fairly simple if time consuming. As an individual, you must obtain approval from the ATF, obtain a signature from the Chief Law Enforcement Officer (CLEO) who is the county sheriff or city or town chief of police (not necessarily permission), pass an extensive background check to include submitting a photograph and fingerprints, fully register the firearm, receive ATF written permission before moving the firearm across state lines, and pay a tax. The request to transfer ownership of an NFA item is made on an ATF Form 4. (https://www.atf.gov/file/61546/download)
An alternate method of registering an NFA Firearm is as a corporation, trust, or other legal entity. When the paperwork to request transfer of an NFA item is initiated by an officer of a corporation, a signature from local law enforcement is not required, and fingerprint cards and photographs do not need to be submitted with the transfer request. Therefore, an individual who lives in a location where the chief law enforcement officer will not sign a transfer form, for example, can still own an NFA item if he or she owns a corporation or trust. This method has downsides, since it’s the corporation (and not the principal) that owns the firearm. Thus, if the corporation ever dissolves, it must transfer its NFA to the owners. This event would be considered a new transfer and would be subject to a new transfer tax.
When buying your first silencer or sound suppressor (the terms are used interchangeably), I recommend the Silencer Shop . I have no affiliation with them but they simplified the process for me when I bought my first silencer. They will take you by the hand and lead you through the steps. They also have forms and can help you set up a trust if you decide to go that route. Very responsive and professional group of people.
You can also get forms and instructions through the ATF website: https://www.atf.gov/resource-center/forms-library, and online through sites like https://www.guntrustlawyer.com/form4.
You do not need a “Class III FFL” or any other license. An FFL is required as a prerequisite to become a Special Occupation Taxpayer (SOT): Class 1 importer, Class 2 manufacturer-dealer or Class 3 dealer in NFA, but not for an individual owner. After submitting your paperwork, the process generally takes from three to six months. Once you receive your signed form 4 with tax stamp back from the ATF, you’re eligible to take possession of your firearm. If it is being shipped, it must be shipped to a class III FFL, except that silencers, for residents of the state of Texas, may be shipped directly to them.
You may even manufacture your own NFA Firearms, with the exception of machine guns which are illegal for an individual to manufacture. However, before starting, you must pay a manufacturing tax of $200. Of course, you’ll also have to pay a $200 registration tax, so it might be more cost effective to simply buy your NFA Firearm from a licensed manufacturer/dealer.

PENALTIES

While the registration process for NFA Firearms is a hassle and many of us think it’s unconstitutional, this isn’t something you want to treat lightly. It is currently the law of the land. Breaking the law will put you in serious doo doo. And there’s no reason to risk it. Sure $200 seems like a lot of money and who wants to be on a registration list? But it’s not $3,500 like it was in 1934 (thanks to inflation) so consider it a bargain.
According to The NFA Handbook, “Violations of the Act are punishable by up to 10 years in federal prison and forfeiture of all devices or firearms in violation, and the individual’s right to own or possess firearms in the future. The Act provides for a penalty of $10,000 for certain violations. A willful attempt to evade or defeat a tax imposed by the Act is a felony punishable by up to five years in prison and a $100,000 fine ($500,000 in the case of a corporation or trust), under the general tax evasion statute. For an individual, the felony fine of $100,000 for tax evasion could be increased to $250,000.” Ouch!

THE FUTURE

No one knows what the future will bring. However there are some positive signs. Who needs to pay $15,000 for a pre-ban machine gun when you can get a non-NFA trigger like a Tac-Con 3 MR or Tac-Con AK47 Raptor that allows full automatic-like fire. (You still have to pull the trigger separately for each shot but the trigger helps you do that more effectively.) And there are less expensive devices like the GAT, Hellfire, Tac Trigger, and Slide Fire bump fire stock. Maybe as these proliferate, politicians can be persuaded that that they’re just hurting our gun manufacturers with a ban that no longer makes sense.
Sound suppressors are becoming more popular. They should be legal for health reasons as they were before NFA. You could generally buy them in the local hardware store. No one wants to sacrifice their hearing to pursue shooting sports, and we shouldn’t have to.
As for SBRs, a host of manufacturers are now offering non NFA large pistols that, with a single point sling and red dot optic, can substitute for an SBR in home defense applications.
Maintaining our Second Amendment rights will still be a struggle but the pendulum seems to be swinging in our favor. In the meantime, if you want an NFA Firearm, go out and get one. It’s your right.

Build an AR-15: Direct Impingement or Piston Operation?

Imagine the bolt (below) inside of the bolt carrier (above) and you can see how the gas flow works.

We’re on to part three in our series on how to build an AR-15, and this one is important. We’re going to get technical. If you’re new to this series, I’d like to suggest you read the introduction. If you’re serious about building an AR, it will let you know what you’re getting into.
Part 1: Build an AR-15: The Series Introduction (Why Build Your Own AR)
And before you start buying parts, you should understand what you want the rifle to do. Is this going to be a 5.56 rifle? A .300 blackout? Are you wanting to build the most versatile multi-caliber lower possible?
Part 2: Build an AR-15: AR Calibers  (Or is 5.56 really the right choice?)

All AR-type rifles have plenty of gas; they just deal with it differently.

Eugene Stoner had plenty of gas. So much so that he designed his AR-15 semi-automatic rifle to work entirely on gas flow. The method of operation was called direct impingement. Well, people refer to it as direct impingement, but it’s really a little bit different. We’ll get into that nitty gritty minutia in a bit. For now, just envision those nifty lug wrenches at tire stores that are powered completely by compressed air. It’s a similar concept.
But, as a fellow gun person, you know how we like to tinker. It doesn’t matter if something works or not; we’ve just got to tweak modify and try to improve things. Our collective experimentation has created another type of system for AR-type rifles. That would be piston operation. We’ll explain that in detail in a bit also.

Direct Impingement Operation

I’m going to use the term “direct impingement” here, but only because everyone else does, and it’s commonly known. Technically, Eugene Stoner’s original design is really more like an internal piston that operates inside the bolt carrier. Think of this comparison, and we’ll keep our analogies a little loose for simplicity.
In a pure direct impingement scenario, imagine blasting a jet of compressed air at a lever, like maybe a light switch. With enough air pressure, you’re going to bash the switch hard enough to move it to the opposite position. That hammering like motion with gas it sort of like true direct impingement.

Here’s the barrel gas port, formerly under the front sight and gas block, which has been removed.

With an internal pistol system, you’re filling the inside of a cylinder with expanding gas. As pressure builds, it’s gonna want to move the piston in the direction of least resistance. Again, with a slightly inexact analogy think of this scenario like a gas engine piston moving as the gas vapor ignites and increases the pressure inside of the cylinder.
Let’s look at exactly how this “direct impingement” or “internal piston” works in an AR-type rifle.
When you fire a cartridge, a veritable boatload of hot and expanding gas pushes the bullet down the barrel. It’s under really big pressure, starting at somewhere around 60,000 pounds per square inch. Of course, that pressure level rapidly declines as the volume between the cartridge base and bullet rapidly increases as the bullet moves down the barrel. The section of the barrel between the chamber and bullet at any given microsecond represents the available volume. And from high school physics, some famous smart guy stated that as volume increases, pressure has to decrease, all else being equal. I think it was Ben Cartwright before he opened that ranch on Bonanza.
Part way down the barrel (the exact position varies depending on the “gas system length” of the rifle in question) there’s a tiny hole that lets gas escape into what’s commonly referred to as the gas block. In original AR-type rifles with the triangular fixed sight, the gas block is contained within the sight assembly, so you really don’t see it as a separate piece. Part of the function of the gas block is to redirect some of the gas back towards the action of the gun. The gas is moving towards the muzzle, then straight up through the hole in the barrel. The gas block redirects it through a gas tube that leads back to the receiver. If you look through holes of the hand guard on an AR-type rifle, you’ll see a (usually) silver tube running between the front sight or gas block and receiver.

On a direct impingement AR-type rifle, the gas tube connects to the gas block and/or front sight and directs gas back to the bolt carrier group in the receiver.

This tube ends at what’s called the gas key on the bolt carrier. The key fits over the gas tube and redirects the gas into the interior of the bolt carrier where it can move the bolt itself. Here, the bolt and carrier act pretty much like a piston (the bolt tail) and a cylinder (the bolt carrier.) The gas enters the bolt carrier and fills a chamber created by the space between the gas rings on the bolt and the internal wall of the bolt carrier where the firing pin body is located.
As gas enters this “cylinder” area, it pushes the bolt in the direction of least resistance, which is actually forward, sort of. In the locked position, the bolt is pressed all the way into the bolt carrier. The expanding gas moves it forward and the carrier backward, so the bolt rotates as the cam pin follows the angled path of the cam pin slot. Once the bolt partially turns and unlocks from the barrel extension, it has nowhere else to go, so the gas pressure inside of our “cylinder” pushes the bolt carrier backward further towards the recoil spring. The bolt carrier movement drags the bolt with it, causing ejection of the round.
At some point, the resistance of the buffer spring overpowers the declining gas pressure and starts to move the whole assembly forward again, picking up a new round in the process. The bolt carrier and bolt slam into the barrel extension and pressure pushes the bolt back inside of the bolt carrier, rotating due to the cam pin slot. The bolt locks into position, and you’re ready to fire another shot.
That’s quite a lot happening in a small fraction of a second. In the context of direct impingement versus piston operation, it all boils down to this. The bolt itself is a piston. The bolt carrier is a cylinder. Rather than a “gas jet bashing motion” the operation is a more gentle expansion in a cylinder that results in movement. Of course, “gentle” is a relative term. Hot and dirty gas flows directly into the bolt assembly causing movement, extraction, hammer re-cocking and chambering of a new round. Don’t let the “hot and dirty gas in the bolt” concern you too much, as it’s a largely self-cleaning system. I don’t mean you don’t have to clean your rifle. I simply mean that gunk doesn’t build up infinitely on the interior of the piston and cylinder surfaces.

Piston Operation

With piston operation, the interface between hot expanding gas and moving parts happens far away from the bolt itself.

The fully installed gas piston and operating rod on the LWRC.

When you fire a shot, hot, high-pressure gas moves down the barrel, driving the bullet forward. Piston guns still have a small gas port in the barrel that allows some of the expanding gas to move into a gas block.
Here’s where the differences between the two systems begin. Rather than directing the gas all the way back to the receiver, the block directs the gas into a cylinder above the barrel. Inside of this cylinder is a piston that moves forward from the gas pressure.

This is as far as dirty gas gets on this particular pistol operated rifle.

With most designs, the cylinder impacts some type of operating or connecting rod, which carriers the movement back to the bolt carrier group.

The piston without operating rod installed.

On an AR-type rifle, the connecting rod impacts a modified gas carrier key. On the direct impingement gun, the gas key just directs the flow of gas to the bolt. On a piston gun, the “gas key” equivalent part takes the hit from the connecting rod and pushes the bolt carrier group backward, initiating the same function as with a regular AR-type rifle.

Note how clean this operating rod is. That’s because hot and dirty gas never touches it.

The net-net of the piston system is that the bolt is moved via impact of a metal rod rather than flow of gas into the bolt carrier. The bolt and carrier do not operate as a piston and cylinder – those equivalent parts are located far forward above the barrel.

Here’s the LWRC R.E.P.R. “gas key” which really has nothing to do with gas at all.

Pros and Cons

Cleanliness is next to… piston operation?

The direct impingement haters can’t stand the fact that hot, dirty gas blows right into the action of your rifle with each and every shot. That just sounds bad, right?
Of course, there is truth to this. Hot and dirty gas DOES, in fact, go straight into the bolt area. The real question is, how much does that matter? In my view, not much. The system is designed that way and offers plenty of offsetting advantages which we will touch on elsewhere in this section. As mentioned earlier, the carbon build up on the boat tail is largely a self-cleaning scenario. In terms of other cleaning and maintenance, there are fewer moving parts in a direct impingement system, so there are fewer parts to get dirty to the point of malfunction.

This bolt hasn’t been cleaned yet and has hundreds of rounds of .308 through it. Note how clean a piston system keeps the bolt and carrier.

With piston designs, the gas moves a piston located far from the action. After the gas does it’s work, excess is vented to the great outdoors. The net result is that the bolt and carrier area stays pretty darn clean, making your cleaning chores fewer and farther between. On the flip side, you now have parts up front, under the hand guard, that are subject to other types environmental dirt and subsequent jamming.
From a reliability related to cleanliness standpoint, I would consider the two designs a wash. You have different types of “dirt risk” for any type of rifle. The bottom line is that you still need to maintain your gun properly.

Temperature

In a traditional direct impingement AR-type rifle, the gas that enters the bolt and carrier area are HOT. Predictably, those parts, and the surrounding upper receiver, get hot pretty quickly. Unless you’re planning to pull the bolt and carrier out with your bare hands immediately after unloading a few magazines, this isn’t a huge deal. Of course, hotter temperatures can break down lubricants faster, so you will need to pay more attention that and use high quality, temperature-resistant gun oils.
On a piston gun, the action stays surprisingly cool. Of course, the chamber will get hot and bleed heat into surrounding areas, it just takes a lot more shots to get the bolt and carrier area to the same temperature level.

Suppressor use

There are a lot of theoretical arguments about which platform is better for suppressor use, but my view is far more practical. If you use a suppressor, your gun will get filthy, regardless of whether it’s a direct impingement or piston operated model.
Many piston systems offer adjustable gas features which let you decrease the amount of gas fed into the system for suppressor use, or increase the amount of gas for adverse conditions. The extra gas flow makes things work even when dirty, to a degree.

Accuracy

Here’s where potential fighting words start. While I won’t (and can’t) make a definitive claim that traditional direct impingement rifles are more accurate, it’s been my experience that they are. Disclaimer: I have NOT tested enough rifles of both types under strictly controlled conditions to make that claim, it’s just what I have observed over time. I suspect this is for a variety of reasons.
The direct impingement system is a very smooth operation. The flow of gas to the bolt and carrier creates no movement of parts until it enters the cylinder (bolt carrier.) The forward and backward motion of the bolt and carrier is very linear, with no torque or off-center force. To oversimplify, it’s a very smooth action. Piston guns have moving parts along the way, and the force that moves the bolt carrier is “off center.” The connecting rod applies backward motion to the modified gas key on the bolt carrier, potentially creating a non-linear pushing motion. Manufacturers have come up with various solutions to mitigate this, but it’s still at last a theoretical issue. While the bullet is gone by the time all this happens, many folks believe the linear action of the direct impingement system does improve bolt locking and unlocking, which can affect accuracy.
Overall mass might come into play also. The extra piston and operating rod components add weight. And movement of mass during firing cause overall movement. While the bullet is gone by the time things really start to move, this shift mass can force the rifle off target between shorts more than with a direct impingement model.

Standardization

The classic direct impingement AR-type rifles (usually) have interchangeable parts as they follow the design on the original AR-15. Generally speaking, parts are easy to come by from a variety of manufacturers.
Piston designs are generally proprietary. Everyone has a slightly different design, so parts are usually not interchangeable. You’ll almost always have to get replacements and support from the manufacturer of your rifle components.

Which One Should You Build?

Unfortunately I can’t just tell you the answer. Like most things gun-related, much depends on the intended use and your personal preferences. In my opinion, neither is “better” than the other. It’s just like pizza. Double-cheese and Italian sausage isn’t “better” than triple-cheese and pepperoni. It’s just different. Yes, I like lots of cheese on my pizza, but that’s beside the point.
Decide what features you care about for your anticipated type of use. Consider how some of the pros and cons discussed here might impact that way you’re going to use your gun. The good news is that there is no right or wrong decision – it’s really a matter of pizza.

Perfecting the Remington 700 with Accuracy International’s Chassis

A couple of years ago I purchased my first Accuracy International chassis system, an AX AICS to be precise, for my Remington 700 AAC-SD. At the time it was a bit of a risk for me. I had never really considered myself a chassis kind of guy. It had a lot of features that appealed to me, though, and as it turns out I had nothing to be concerned about. I ended up with a system that fit me very well and gave me exceptional performance. It’s almost $1,500 so not for the light of heart, but if you are a serious shooter, a serious chassis is something you have already thought about, and I think this AI chassis is a great choice.
I was quite excited then when Accuracy International released an updated version of the AX AICS last year that I knew would be perfect for my 6.5 Creedmoor build. Dubbed the 2014 AX AICS, it immediately set itself apart from the previous stock due to the new right hand folding stock assembly reminiscent of AI’s multi-caliber PSR. The 2014 AX AICS was kind of hard to come by, but I was finally able to get one just after the first of the year and test it out in my new 6.5 Creedmoor.

It’s safe to say that it actually bears very little in common with the AX AICS that I use on my AAC-SD. From the outside they look similar, but upon closer inspection nearly every component has been tweaked to offer the shooter an excellent product that lives up to the reputation of Accuracy International.

Easy to see numbering lets the shooter set the cheek height perfectly and put it back in case it has to be readjusted.

The AX AICS

When I received the 2014 AX AICS it came in a rather nondescript box like my previous chassis but the packaging inside has been improved with fitted closed cell padding for all of the components that come with the chassis. Inside I found the following:

• 2014 AX AICS Chassis Main Section
• KeySlot Forend
• 2 Short Picatinny Rails with QD Sockets
• 1 Long Picatinny Rail with a QD Socket
• 1 Short Picatinny Rail
• 1 Harris Bipod Adpater
• Assembly Instructions

Compared to my first AX AICS, the newer version is much faster and easier to assemble since it utilizes fewer screws to attach the handguard thanks to a revised interface. Similar in appearance to the PSR and AXMC the forend has a larger “V” section that fits into a corresponding channel to create a more robust connection compared to the old design while using only two screws. Also unlike the previous version where you had to remove the plastic handguard to access the 10 fasteners, the hex screws on the 2014 AX AICS are accessible through the handguard itself. The 4mm hex wrench needed to attach the handguard, remove or attach rail sections, and make stock adjustments is conveniently stored under the cheek piece in a small recess. This was a feature that I first saw on the Accuracy International PSR and I’m glad to see that it’s filtered down to this chassis system.
Fully assembled without a magazine the total package weighs 5 lbs 6 oz but that weight is well balanced so it actually doesn’t feel quite so hefty. In comparison, the McMillan A5 that I had handy is equipped with a fixed length of pull, four flush cups, 1 bipod stud, a saddle cheekpiece, and a Badger M5 DBM which brought the weight to 4 lbs 5 oz. Manners Composite Stocks provides probably the closest comparison in terms of traditional styling with modern features in the form of their folding stocks with the mini-chassis system and other accessories which will bring the weight up to 5.1-5.3 lbs according to their website, essentially the same as the 2014 AX AICS. So weight wise the new AX chassis pretty much falls right in line with some of its competition when equipped with similar features.

These holes allow the screws securing the forend to be loosened without taking off the plastic handgrip. This is something that has been carried over from the PSR and AXMC rifles.

Development

In fact many of the features found on this stock are a direct result of Accuracy International’s participation in the US SOCOM PSR and USMC M40 chassis upgrade programs. The stock assembly on the 2014 AX AICS is probably the most obvious PSR-inspired carry over and completely different in design and function from the older version on the first AX AICS. The stock now folds to the right over the bolt handle so that the chassis is more compact for easier transport and storage. I said that the stock is PSR-inspired because AI didn’t just take the stock from the PSR and put it on the AX AICS. They took their time and redesigned it so that it would work with the widest number of bolt handle and knob combinations possible. Small details like the size of the aperture and the location of the flush cup were done to make sure that it could work. It’s not guaranteed to work with everything of course and I think a lot of it depends on who installed the bolt knob.
My Remington 700 has a Badger Ordnance tactical bolt knob installed by GA Precision and I found that I have to lift the handle ever so slightly to get the stock to snap in to the retaining collet. A minor issue and one that I’ve read about with at least one other 2014 AX AICS but not a deal killer. Just like with the older version of the AX AICS there are adjustments for the cheek height and length of pull, however now those adjustments can be made faster and easier. The buttpad of the stock is adjustable for height and cant through the simple means of a thumbscrew at the rear, which is a great feature to help get the stock perfectly fitted for maximum comfort. The cheek piece can be adjusted for not just up and down but also side to side using the included 4mm hex wrench that’s stored underneath. On the underside of the stock there’s actually a small KeySlot section that can be run bare or with one of the included short rail sections. This allows the use of the included hand stop or a rail mounted monopod to provide a steady rear support.

The New Bedding

One particular detail that interested me very much about this new chassis was a seemingly revised bedding interface that I’d only seen briefly in a video from SHOT Show. It wasn’t until I got the chassis in my hands that I’d seen exactly what Accuracy International had done and the thought processes behind it. Instead of the traditional V-block type interface most are accustomed to the new interface has two parallel ridges at the rear tang and front action screw.
I asked Accuracy International about this and the purpose for those ridges is to move the support lower on the action and most notably improve support under the rear tang. Too little support and flexing of the rear tang has always been a criticism of this and other chassis systems that use a traditional v-block bedding interface.  To cope with this aspect of a traditional chassis some shooters use certain torque settings for the front and rear while others just bed the rear tang to give it more support.

The ridges shown here are a major part of the revised bedding interface that provides more action support than previously.

Another overlooked feature that AI employed came from their work with the M40 series of rifles during the development of the chassis upgrade program. They found that after some of the actions had been trued the action screw holes would be offset a little so they made the holes in the chassis oblong so the screws wouldn’t be touching the sides, a very minute detail that could have a big impact. The recoil lug pocket has also been modified to except larger recoil lugs, which was another common complaint with the older chassis systems that then had to be modified. However, I found during my first attempt to mount the new 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action into the chassis the Badger Ordnance recoil lug bottomed out in the pocket. It appears that two small shelves on either side of the lug pocket kept the lug from seating all the way down. This was an easy matter to remedy and after a few minutes the gunsmith had the recoil lug milled down until it wasn’t touching anything in the chassis.

Magazines

The chassis still utilizes the same AX specific five and ten round AICS magazines as the previous generation of AX AICS. These magazines differ from the other AICS magazines used with the legacy AICS stocks in that they have a small lip on the front that fits into a corresponding notch in the magazine well. This tab holds the magazine firmly in place for ultra reliable feeding when it is inserted into the flared magazine well.
Standard AICS magazines will still work with the AX AICS chassis despite what others have alluded to on the interwebs, they will just be able to rock forward slightly more because of the lack of the tab. I have not experienced any issues running the standard AICS magazines in the chassis and even if they were rocked all the way forward they still functioned perfectly. One caveat that needs to be remembered though is that you can use both AX and legacy AICS magazines in the AX AICS chassis but you can’t use AX magazines in legacy chassis systems or third party detachable magazines systems designed for standard AICS magazines.

Accuracy International even redesigned the mounting studs to be more recoil resistant.

Forend

Taking a look at the KeySlot forend on the AX AICS, it might bear some resemblance to the KeyMod systems that have been taking the AR-15 world by storm but the two really couldn’t be any more different. From the outside they do look similar but when looking at the details the depth and profile of the recesses inside mean that the two are not compatible. In fact the forend on the 2014 AX AICS has been redesigned and improved from the previous version with revised geometry on the internal recesses and with a larger hole for the KeySlot studs. This means the tube has more in common with the PSR and AXMC handguards than the older KeySlot tube found on my first generation AX AICS.
This newer design helps make the rails more recoil and vibration resistant so that accessories won’t come loose or lose their zero at the worst possible time. It’s nice that the newly designed KeySlot studs also sit flush with the inside of the forend when they are tightened down that gives it a nice fit and finish.

Putting it all together

Of course there’s no way to be sure that all of the changes and revisions will equate to a better product until you actually bolt a barreled action into the thing and shoot it. Initially I had some concerns that the action would be too stressed when it was torqued down into the chassis and I’d end up having to skim bed it. This apprehension was based on a previous experience that I’d had trying to use this action with another chassis from a different manufacturer.
All of my apprehension seemed to go away though when I finally dropped my new 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action onto the bedding interface and saw no discernible stress on the action when I tightened everything to 57 in/lbs. That was a good sign that the ridges in the bedding interface were doing their job but as the saying goes “the proof is in the pudding.”

The magazine cut out on the left side lets 10 round AICS mags be loaded without having to lift the rear of the stock up or breaking the cheek weld.

Shooting

Leave it to me though to pick a day to go shoot my brand new set up when the wind is howling at 30 miles per hour and the temperature is cold enough to make your fingers go numb. I did the best I could to get zeroed and put up a couple of respectable groups on paper but when the wind is moving you and the target backboard, it just isn’t that easy. That being said I was able to shoot several sub-MOA groups with Hornady’s 140gr AMAX Match and Winchester’s 140 gr Match ammunition. Hornady’s match ammunition was the best performer overall with a couple really nice 1/2 MOA groups at 100 yards, better velocity, and more consistency.
At 200 and 300 yards I really began to appreciate the amount of adjustability and the comfortable grip angle on stock since it seemed to quite effortless to stack rounds on top of each other from the bench owing some thanks to the Bushnell 3.5-21X50 ERS. It’s a gratifying feeling to see every shot just make the dark spot on the target get a little bigger. I knew to quit while I was ahead, especially considering the cold and windy weather so I packed it in, destined to return again for some more range time to get ready for the Nightforce Optics PRS Shoot Out.
I didn’t have a lot of time to get ready but week before the match I was able to put some more rounds down range and I wasn’t disappointed in the least with the accuracy at 600 yards. For the longest time I thought that an accurate rifle had to be pillar bedded and a chassis system only provided good enough accuracy. It turns out this isn’t quite true, at least not in my case as the stock was comfortable, it helped me absorb the recoil, and absolutely hammered nails out to 600 yards.

My good friend stacking rounds up at 300 yards.

The Nightforce PRS Match

Before I knew it the Nightforce-sponsored PRS match was upon us and I experienced my first issue with the chassis system. During one of the early morning stages on the first day, I noticed that the adjustments for my length of pull and cheek piece had loosened up. The grippy material used on the cheek piece adjustment kept it from falling down and after a minute with my Leatherman MUT I was back in business.
I caught up with another competitor that was using a 2014 AX AICS also and asked if he’d had similar issues. His answer made me realize that I’d overlooked a couple of small details I’d like to pass on. If you tighten the screws only hand tight, they will eventually back off and to give the screws a little more extra oomph, use the included 4mm hex wrench to give the screws another quarter turn. Turns out this information was printed in the instructions included with the chassis that I didn’t bother to read so that one is on me. So now you know and knowing is half the battle. the chassis was superb throughout the rest of the match and I had no issues with loosening action screws or adjustment screws. On the second day we shot a lot of off hand shots, improvised shooting positions, even from our weak side and the stock didn’t let me down. I was able to make quick easy adjustments and I stayed comfortable behind the trigger.
The 2014 AX AICS is easily one of the best purchases I’ve made this year. I’ll be the first to warn you though the chassis isn’t cheap. It retails for just under $1500 from most vendors. However I believe that money is well spent considering the 2014 AX AICS is only about $150 more than what the pre-2014 retailed just a couple of years ago. The modest price hike nets the end user additional accessory rails, more adjustability, a revised bedding interface that works very well with a factory action, and a right hand folding stock for easy, compact transport. Although there are cheaper chassis systems on the market and ones that are much more expensive, I don’t think any of them have the longevity and reputation of Accuracy International. If you are looking for a chassis system for your Remington 700 or clone action that might see some serious use I highly recommend taking a look at the 2014 AX AICS.

The cheek piece holds a 4mm hex screw underneath that can be used to adjust and reconfigure various parts of the stock. The wrench can be used to give the wing nuts a little oomph for some extra security.

There is an extra grippy material used on the stock that helps keeps adjustments glued in place with just a little tension. The thumbwheel also makes it easy to fit the recoil pad to the shoulder

The aperture in the stock is large enough to accommodate most tactical bolt knobs.

The stock assembly has been extensively engineered to be fully adjustable and configurable to the shooter’s needs. The butt hook is removable to allow other accessories to be used.

Accuracy International went the extra mile designed the bedding interface to make sure it was compatible across a wide variation of recoil lugs, triggers, and actions.

The right hand folding configuration lets the rifle have a narrower profile compared to left hand folding stocks. It also shortens the rifle by about 8 inches.

Other than the stock assembly the 2014 AX AICS looks pretty similar to the first generation of AX AICS.

I reall got to use the 2014 AX AICS at the Nightforce Precision Shootout. The stock was nothing short of perfect, especially when it came to shooting from unconventional positions.

Mystery deepens: Who left 130-year-old rifle in NV desert?

Now Playing Mystery of 130-year-old desert rifle deepens

A 130-year-old rifle found in the Nevada desert last year is fully loaded with mystery—and some of the questions surrounding it might never be answered.
The Winchester 1873 rifle was discovered in the Great Basin National Park leaning against a juniper tree in November. But the strange discovery has triggered more questions than answers.

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“You have this gun that no one really knows what happened to it and it gets so much attention because of that,” said Ashley Hlebinsky, curator at the Cody Firearms Museum, in Wyoming.

“You have this gun that no one really knows what happened to it and it gets so much attention because of that.”
- Ashley Hlebinsky

The gun was carefully collected and shipped to the museum, where its weathered wood was stabilized with an alcohol solution. A team of researchers carried the firearm to a local hospital to be X-rayed under the patient name “Rifle.”

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The gun's model number was easily made out on the rusted steel. (U.S. National Parks Service)

Museum workers determined the rifle, which was massed produced and is billed as the “gun that won the west” was made in 1882 -- but there are no records to show who owned it.
Adding to the mystery, the gun’s lifter was removed so it was only capable of firing a single shot at once.
Researchers told FoxNews.com the area in Nevada where the gun was found doesn’t help the case either. There was never a recorded fire in the region, which would help them date the gun's presence at the tree, had it survived the flames. Archaeologists scoured the nearby soil for related clues but found nothing—especially not a body.
The Winchester rifle is currently being preserved and is on display at the Cody Firearms Museum, where it sits among 7,000 other guns. Hlebinsky said the Winchester is the star of the show.
“I think a lot of it has to do with the allure and the mystique,” Hlebinsky said. “Why was it leaning up against that tree, how long has it been there, who left it and why.”

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Parks employees taped the gun together to keep it from falling apart. (U.S. National Parks Service)

And, folks are coming up with all types of scenarios about how it got there.
“A personal favorite of mine is ‘my ex-wife hid it and took it from me,’” she said.
The museum won’t estimate how much the rifle is worth, but gun experts at Las Vegas’ famous Gold and Silver pawn shop say the added backstory of the rifle would likely increase its value.
“It definitely can fetch a higher price, probably a few thousand dollars I would say,” said Travis Benton, store manager.
Eventually the Winchester rifle will be shipped back to the Great Basin Park for permanent displa, it’s tattered body and the secret of how it ended up in the desert forever protected by a wall of glass.

US Surplus .50 BMG Full Metal Jacket, 709 Grain Ball M2, 2810 fps, 130 Rounds On Links in Bulk Case

US Surplus .50 BMG Full Metal Jacket, 709 Grain Ball M2, 2810 fps, 130 Rounds On Links in Bulk Case

Build an AR-15: The Lowdown on Lowers

How involved do you want to be with the building process? You can buy a completed lower, put it together your self, or finish the milling process as I did with this 80% arms lower.

Get caught up with the step-by-step series

Part 1: Build an AR-15: The Series Introduction
Part 2: Build an AR-15: AR Calibers
Part 3: Build an AR-15: Direct Impingement or Piston Operation
Part 4: Build an AR-15: Tools and Materials
Buy an AR-15 Lower Receiver on GunsAmerica: http://www.gunsamerica.com/Search.aspx?T=ar-15%20lower

The Garand continues to be popular thanks to groups like the CMP and Call of Duty games. But it wasn’t the logical choice for the wars of the late 20th century.

A brief and reductive history

As the dust settled from WW2, the powers-that-be accepted that our standard service rifle wasn’t the answer for unconventional warfare. The M1 Garand was simply too big, too slow, too limited. Battle rifles were a product of late 19th and early 20th century fighting styles. While there are a lot of die-hard fans of the Garand, most of them would hesitate to carry the weapon into war.
We had fielded the M1 Carbine, which was easier to carry, but the .30 Carbine round had limited range and mediocre ballistic performance. There was a need for a rifle that took the best features of all of America’s sweet hearts and embodied them into one space age blaster.
But tradition dies hard. We had a brief detour with the M14, essentially a Garand-like rifle that used a box magazine and fired a slightly smaller round (.30-06 and 7.62×51). The prevailing belief suggested that we needed a rifle that fired a heavy projectile.

Even with significant upgrades (like the Juggernaut Rogue Bullpup Chassis), the M1A (Springfield Armory’s version of the M14) is a beast. Capable, yes, but in a different class than the slimmed down AR-15.

The AR platform started its life in the labs of Eugene Stoner. What we know as the AR-15 was a scaled down version of the 7.62×51 caliber AR-10 (still keeping with the big round idea). Originally chambered in .222 special, the AR-15 utilized aluminum and plastic–the materials of the space race–to create a weapon that was both lightweight and strong. Though the AR in AR-15 stands for Armalite Rifle, the project was developed by Armalite and then sold to Colt in 1959.
The rifle was sold to civilians as the AR-15 and was heavily marketed to the US military (and eventually adopted as the M16). In 1967, the M16 was officially adopted as the US Military’s service rifle. And it wasn’t a smooth adoption. For more on the controversy surrounding how the M16 launch catastrophically failed, I’d suggest reading C.J. Chivers’ book The Gun.
Rails, shorter barrels, flat top receivers, collapsible stocks, pistons… the weapon system changed as time progressed. One part, though, has remained fundamentally the same (at least until recently). The lower receiver is the heart of this gun and it is the reason why this rifle is still America’s weapon of choice.

So what is a lower Receiver?

This is for all the CNN reporters who butcher these simple definitions. The lower receiver of an AR-15 is a more than a part; it is the single piece that every other part revolves around. Modular rifle design developed to adapt to the changing needs of individual soldiers. Lowers are (supposed to be) universal and the parts that go in and on them are interchangeable. Triggers are held in place by cross pins. Parts like stocks, buffer tubes, pistol grips, and selectors all come together to form the fully functional lower.

Most lowers are as simple and utilitarian as this DSA. It is a simple aluminum shell that connects almost everything. It is also the serialized piece of the rifle.

Even though the lower is crucial to the gun (in fact, it is the single piece of the rifle that is considered by the ATF to be THE firearm), the AR-15’s lower is of little significance. It has very little to do with the actual performance of the gun. But at the same time with out the lower you have nothing but a box of useless parts.[/one_half_last]

Why buy just a lower?

In today’s market, most people buy lowers with uppers as complete rifles. But we’re looking at a different route and building the guns to our exact wants and needs. As everything revolves around this one piece, we thought we’d show it some love. There are four main ways lowers are sold:

• Complete rifles (I know of very few people who make their rifling buying choices based on the design of the lower, but it can happen. LWRC, for example, has a stylized lower that has drawn fans)
• Complete lowers (these have all of the guts intact–trigger, controls, etc. Minimal DIY)
• Stripped lowers (while these are ready to be built, they allow for more customization)
• 80% lowers (for advanced DIY enthusiasts–more on these below)

Buying a complete lower

Buying a complete lower is a great way to go if you don’t have the tools or know-how to assemble your own gun. You can get them from your favorite manufactures. Palmetto State Armory is popular with those looking for reliability at a low price. With endless options and the Internet at your disposal, you can find a lower that is built exactly the way you want it. These lowers can be purchased online and then shipped to your local FFL for transfer on the old 4473 form you would use to buy any gun. If you are looking for some semi-custom choices, but are not ready to dive into amateur gunsmithing, then this path is for you.

Some lowers, like this PSA, come decked out with all of the controls, and a stock, and a grip.

Buying a stripped lower

What if you want more options? Say you like the looks or feel of one lower, but want a specific design to the trigger shoe on your two-stage trigger, and no one is selling that as part of a package deal? Buy a stripped lower and build it yourself.  This is the best way to go if you want to build a rifle with only the best components.
It’s also a great way to go if you want to build a rifle on a budget. Stripped lowers can be had for a song–sometimes below $50. As the lower isn’t immune to the whims of firearms fashonistas, they can range into the hundreds of dollars. For your first build, keep it simple. As you learn the ins-and-outs of controls, mag-well shapes, the relative weights of component parts, then you can swap out the simple lower receiver for one that does exactly what you want.
Head my warning though–if you are looking to build a budget gun and don’t have much experience, assembling a lower can be a daunting task. Know your skill level. Remember that these are modular in design, and that parts are supposed to fit. Don’t remove material. Don’t force anything. Gunsmiths aren’t cheap. Check out the options like the DSA pictured above–clean, simple, priced right, and completely customizable.

A quick detour into material construction

While we’ve been looking at the basics of how these are sold, we’ve skipped over an important aspect of design. Most are built from varying grades of aluminum. The material is strong enough, easy to work, doesn’t rust, and light. And if it does break, the part is easy to replace. Yet there’s more to consider.
Cast lowers: some lowers are milled out of aluminum that has been melted and poured into a basic mold. While expedient, this method produces a loose crystalline structure within the aluminum. Is it strong enough? Yes. Is is the strongest method? No.
Milled lowers: while most lowers are milled at some point in their construction, some are milled from billets of aluminum. A billet is just bar stock. The strength of the bar itself (which is determine by how it is made) determines the strength of the final product. This method often produces a stronger lower than simple casting.
Forged lowers: if you want something more, look to forged lowers. These are made from billets that are hammered into molds, or compressed under pressure. This forging is then milled. The compression of the crystalline structure makes this one of the strongest methods of construction.
If you are looking at aluminum, consider the end cost. More strength equals more production time. Is it worth it? Maybe. It depends on the intended purpose of the gun. If you want even more strength (or even less) there are other options. What other materials are common? Just about everything.

For those who want an AR to look at, I’d suggest Turnbull’s TAR-15. It is made of steel. That’s kind of like saying the Hope Diamond is made from coal. Turnbull makes some pretty guns.

If you’d rather not lug around ferrous metals, you can try carbon fiber. Tegra Arms makes light-weight lowers out of our generation’s space age materials. The one above is a carbon fiber composite, which means the polymer is reinforced with an incredibly light and durable material.

Or maybe you want titanium? You know–why not have a rifle that will outlive you, and your kids, and your kids’ kids…. These will likely have the same service life as a 1950’s Russian AK. Nemo Arms, a company that pushes the limits on the AR pattern rifles, has an AR-10 made from titanium. Why not an AR-15?

Maybe because it is overkill. Plastics work fine. Polymer lowers have been a thing of novelty in the past, but in recent years polymer technology has advanced to a point that the polymer lower is a viable option. These lowers can handle serious use and cost even less than a stripped aluminum lower. Tennessee Arms Company is a leader in this field as they have developed an entire line of polymer lower receivers reinforced with marine grade brass where strength is necessary. These lowers are inexpensive, hold a lifetime warranty, and are about as cool as they get. And some hold the opinion that the plastic lowers flex where aluminum lowers crack.

The polymer reacts better, we’re told, than some metals. It has more elasticity, and handles recoil energy without cracking. And the jig shows what needs to be removed to make it work.

Buying a 80% lower

http://www.80percentarms.com/collections/lower-receivers
Lowers that are serialized and considered by the ATF to be firearms must be transferred through an FFL, at least originally. What if you want to skip that step? 80% lowers may be the best option. If a lower is only 80% complete, it is not yet a firearm. Therefore, it requires no special paperwork. It can be bought from a manufacturer and sent directly to you.
You finish the last 20%, and make it into a functional lower receiver. How hard is that to do? It takes a bit of skill, but it is hardly an advanced project. If you can operate a drill press and are confident in your ability to measure things correctly, the job is easily accomplished.
They come in polymer, from folks like Polymer80 and in Aluminum from 80percent arms.

Read our reviews of the 80% build processes here:

http://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/polymer-80/

http://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/80-arms-billet-aluminum-lower-build-no-milling-machine-needed/

Once you get a handle on the basics, you may want to mill your own lower. Aluminum is harder to cut than plastic.

Buying an 80% lower receiver is the most involved and cost prohibitive option on this list. Choosing to take on the task of manufacturing your own lower receiver is more than novel. It takes a decent amount of time, the right tools, and sufficient knowledge of how to use those tools. This road generally costs more to travel down. A blank 80% lower can cost you any where from $50- $200, and then you need to figure out how you will manufacture the rest of the gun. A jig will cost you around $150 and the tools required for the bare minimum would run you about another $200. Even if the cost is considerably higher,  manufacturing a lower receiver begins to become economical once you acquire the tools. Companies like 80% Arms have simplified this process and made it a task that most can complete with great success.

The flip side to this coin is that the lower you manufacture is truly your gun. You are the manufacturer. It is un-serialized, and something you can show off to your friends for years to come. Building out a 80% lower does require time and a bit of skill, but if you are reasonably good with power-tools, there is no greater reward than building a gun around a lower receiver you milled yourself.

In the end

Once you’ve decided on how much time and work you want to put into a lower, and what materials you are looking for, you can fine-tune the process. While most lowers are the same basic shape, there are nuances that can be important. Do you want or need a left-handed design? A right hand orientation with ambidextrous controls? Are you looking for a wider mag well to make loading easier? Would you prefer grooves on the front of the mag well for support hand grip? How much decoration do you want on the lower itself? Do you risk sacrificing durability for weight reduction and go with a skeletonized lower that is feather light?
The AR-15 is everything it can be because of the lower. There have never been more options than there are today. Find what appeals to you and be honest with yourself on what you are comfortable and capable of taking on.

Advanced Mil-Dot: Estimating Distance Using Your Scope

Recently we introduced the whole concept of the mil-dot (or milliradian) system for rifle scopes in Mil-Dot Made Easy. In that article, we got into the practical application of how mil-dot scopes can be used to figure out how to aim at a distant target. With simple math, you can figure out how much adjustment to make to your optic to account for bullet drop at longer ranges. The same system can be used to calculate windage adjustment to account for crosswinds and figuring out how much to lead a moving target.
That’s all fine and cool, but what I like most about the mil-dot system is that it can be used to figure out the distance to a target, just by looking through your optic. Hey, when the Zombies come, batteries are going to be in short supply, and those fancy laser rangefinders will only work for so long.
In fact, one of the earliest uses of the mil-dot ranging system allowed submarine commanders to figure out how far away an enemy ship was. This knowledge, used with some basic math that factored in the speed of their torpedoes, told them where to aim in order to intersect the path of the ship. If you’re ancient enough (like me) to have played that old arcade game Sea Wolf, you’ll know the concept. Except back then, you had to guess when to launch the torpedo, and it took a lot of quarters to nail the timing consistently. If you don’t know what an “arcade game” is, count me as envious of your youth.
Likewise, mil-dot markings in your scope can easily be used to figure out how far away a person, animal, or object is from your current position. It’s a matter of proportion. For example, have you ever tried to help someone spot a planet in the night sky by telling them something like, “Look two thumb widths over from the moon and you’ll see it?” Obviously, Mercury is somewhat farther than two thumbs away from the moon. Your thumb width is just represents a proportional distance relationship. The width of your thumb two feet from your eyes represents some millions or billions of miles of distance far out in space.
The concept of determining how far away something is using mil-dots is similar. Because the proportional size of an object is constant with distance, you can use some basic algebra principles to figure out the range. Don’t freak out because I used the word “Algebra!” I hated that class too, but there is one important thing we all learned that applies here. Remember “solving for X?” All that really boiled down to was knowing that if there are three pieces of information, and you know two of them, you can usually solve for the missing third one. In this case, you can always solve for the missing piece of info at the relationships are proportional.
At risk of grossly oversimplifying math and ticking off my 8th-grade algebra teacher, it works like this. With a mil-dot scope, we know that the measurements between dots on the scope reticle equate to 1 yard at 1,000 yards distance. If we also know the actual size of a distant object, like a person standing, fence post, or copy of the New York Times, then we have two pieces of known information. The only thing missing is the distance between our scope and the known size object.
Let’s use a real-world example to illustrate the idea.
Suppose we want to shoot a copy of The New York Times. Yes, that brings me joy, but that story is for another day. Someone has placed it down range at an unknown distance. As hardly anyone knows, the width of The New York Times is about 12 inches. When folded, as it would be in a newspaper rack, it’s about 11 inches tall. Now, if someone put our example entirely objective content newspaper at close range, say 5 feet, it would look pretty big through a scope. However, if they placed it 300 yards down range, it would appear to be a puny little thing, even less worthy of a read than normal. That’s the whole proportion thing in action. They farther away it is, the smaller it appears.

Using a mil-dot scope to figure out how far away an object is requires only a little simple math.

Here’s where the magic of mil-dot comes into play. What if we “measured” the size of our downrange newspaper using the mil-dot markings in the scope? Using the scope marks like a ruler, we can look at the paper through the scope and see how many “mil-dots” in the scope reticle it covers. At close range, say 10 yards, the paper might appear to be 20 mil-dots tall. At long range, it might only be one or two mil-dots tall. Here’s where we can use our two “known” pieces of information to figure out how far away it is. We know the length of a mil-dot at a fixed range of 1,000 yards. We also know that the New York Times, when folded, is about 11 inches tall. The only piece of missing information is the distance between us and the formerly-epic example of investigative journalism.
Here’s where the proportions come into play. Remember from the previous discussion that one milliradian (mil) equates to one yard at a distance of 1,000 yards. For illustration’s sake, imagine standing a yardstick upright 1,000 yards down range. When we look at that through a mil-dot scope reticle, it will appear to be exactly one mil tall.
That’s the basis of the proportion relationship. If a one-yard tall object appears to be one mil tall through the scope, it must be 1,000 yards away. If it appears to be two mils tall, then it’s only 500 yards away. If the object is not exactly one yard tall, then you need to adjust accordingly.
Let’s say that The New York Times appears to be two mils tall through our scope. But we know that it’s only .305 yards tall. We also know that a one-yard tall object that appears to be two mils tall through the scope is 500 yards away, so a smaller object that appears two mils tall must be closer, since it appears larger.
Rather than get all wrapped up in the words, there’s a simple formula to figure out the range. It relies on knowing the actual size of the object your are ranging and the number of mils that it appears to be through your scope.

Plugging these values into the formula, we get:

The same formula works with meters too, as long as you’re consistent.
It sounds complicated, but once you get the hang of it, you can use this system almost anywhere, because there are almost always objects of known size nearby. For example:

• The average fencepost is about 4 feet (1.33 yards) tall.
• An “average” man standing is 70 inches (1.94 yards) tall.
• An average man sitting is 33 inches (.917 yards) high.
• A Russian T-72 Tank is about 1 yard from the ground to the base of the turret. OK, maybe we don’t all know the tread height of a T-72, but you have to admit, it’s an interesting factoid to file away. I didn’t know it either, and had to look it up.

The idea is to find an object near your target of known size, and use that as your range estimation input. There are plenty of every day objects of known size: cars, trash cans, telephone poles, whitetail deer, fire hydrants, or gun free zone protest signs, just to name a few. If you know the sizes of common objects in your area, you can easily use your mil-dot scope to reliably estimate range. Because some math is actually valuable later in life, just like your high school teacher said.